Casting Call with Orly Genger and Jaclyn Mayer
Turning rope into something even stronger.
The strong, feminine mood board in the Orly Genger by Jaclyn Mayer studio.
As far as Orly Genger and Jaclyn Mayer see things, jewelry doesn’t have to be about glitz. Instead, they’ve shaped their line around appealingly tough hunks of metal, layers of candy-colored paint, and rope traditionally used by sailors and climbers. In fact, that last component finds its way into nearly every design the duo dreams up, but it shape-shifts. “We’re inspired by our materials—by what they can do,” Orly explains. “Every season, we think about a new process or technique, and then we exploit it to the fullest.” Get to know one of their coolest approaches: rope casting. —lydia woolever
Orly: “We’re using malleable materials, and we want to show how something pliable can become tough. We are actually making the soft rope hard by casting it.”
Jaclyn: “We like to stay on the minimal side, but we always try to have juxtaposition—whether it’s the hardness of the metal or the tension of the knots next to the softness of the rope.”
Orly: “With casting, you take an object—any object—and make a mold of it. Then you remove the object and pour metal into the negative space. So here, we cast the rope into the metal. It looks like rope, but it’s actually metal.”
Jaclyn: “We use a soft white metal that we plate in gold or whatever finish we want. We create the design, and then we have our factory in New York that does the casting.”
Orly: “What’s nice about the first bracelet we made for Of a Kind is the way it opens and has flexibility in the middle from the real rope. It reminds me of muscle and bone—like the movement of a joint.”