The Super-Chic Marais USA Guide to Paris

Haley Boyd takes us back to where it all began.

When Haley Boyd was bopping around Paris the summer after her freshman year of college, inspiration struck in a big way: She decided to drop everything and start a shoe line, Marais USA, rooted in her fave ‘hood there. Check out four of the spots she just can’t get enough of when she heads back to the City of Lights. —olivia seely  

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Merci
“This shop is one of my favorites. It’s in Le Marais, the district Marais USA was named after. The store has three gorgeous floors and several cafes. They stock anything from clothing to housewares to knick-knacks, and it’s a great spot to pick up inexpensive—but lovely—gifts for friends and family.”
(111 Boulevard Beaumarchais)

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Rose Bakery
“The baked goods and salads here are incredible, and they sell fresh produce and juices. It’s the perfect little café-slash-grocer to stop in for picnic supplies, especially since it’s so hard to get a table. Spreading out in the park is definitely a Parisian thing to do—and being able to enjoy alcohol outdoors is such a luxury for us Americans!”
(30 Rue Debelleyme)

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Porte de Vanves
“This is a fun flea market to hit up on the weekend mornings. It’s not huge and overwhelming, but there is a good assortment of housewares, art, junk, and clothing. Most of the dealers don’t speak much English, so this is a good opportunity to practice your French. I’ve found some awesome vintage inspirations for our collections here. If you’re really into flea markets, the Clignancourt is the big one for serious collectors—basically the equivalent to Portobello Road in London.”
(Avenue Georges Lafenestre)

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La Perle
“It isn’t hard to find a cute sidewalk cafe to sip wine and people watch, but my favorite is La Perle. The wine is great, it’s super affordable, and it’s a very typically French spot. Good place to meet people, too!”
(78 Rue Vieille du Temple)

Snag a pair of Haley’s rad floral oxfords—perfect for seeing the sights!

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Take 5: Scope Out the Places that Make Paris’s St. Germain Special as Ever

After Emily Altieri finished up her Of a Kind internship this summer, she headed to Paris for some study-abroad action. Yah, we weren’t jealous at all. So we’ve asked her to give us the scoop on her best finds around the city—and, listen, though she might be both darling and young, don’t dare accuse her of having college-girl taste. —erica

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Lucky me: My university’s campus is in the heart of St. Germain—maybe the most posh neighborhood in all of posh Paris. Expect to see wildly sophisticated women with giant designer handbags and perfect blowouts walking into Bon Marché (the French equivalent of Bergdorf’s), and head to these more under-the-radar 6th Arrondissement spots that won me over. emily altieri

Jüli
All of the designers in this small clothing boutique are Scandinavian—which means most of them have names I can’t pronounce. Irla Kiely and Rützou are two of my favorites, and I am really into all of the leather booties and silk slip dresses in general.
(20 Rue d’Assas)

Bread and Roses
This is the perfect place for a chill lunch with friends, but one of my favorite things to do is order the quiche to-go and picnic in the nearby Luxembourg Gardens.
(62 Rue Madame)

Iris
I find shoe shopping to be slightly overwhelming, but this small space allows room for a only few pairs from the latest collections of big names like Jil Sander, Rochas, and Chloé. Which means there’s some stellar stuff to gawk at.
(28 Rue de Grenelle)

Culture of Color
After three different French women commented on my un-manicured fingers, I needed to make a change. I found a nail bar on the bottom floor of Bon Marché that is, somehow, rarely crowded and does a gel manicure in 15 minutes.
(24 Rue de Sèvres)

Brand Bazaar
Just a warning: This mega-boutique has an unfathomable amount of merchandise and isn’t particularly organized—but digging’s well worth it. The bottom floor is all denim and tees, but upstairs you can find pieces from Carven, Iro, and one of my favorite French designers, Stephanie Vaille.
(33 Rue de Sèvres)

This is Emily’s last Paris dispatch—she’s back in the U.S. for spring semester, WAAAH. Catch up on her semester-hanging-in-France posts here.

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Take 5: Get to Know South Pigalle—Where All the Bright Young Things Hang in Paris

 After Emily Altieri finished up her Of a Kind internship this summer, she headed to Paris for some study-abroad action. Yah, we weren’t jealous at all. So we’ve asked her to give us the scoop on her best finds around the city—and, listen, though she might be both darling and young, don’t dare accuse her of having college-girl taste. —erica

The cool kids of Paris told me to head to South Pigalle—or SoPi, as they would say—and I listened. Now I’m practically a local: The neighborhood is a little grunge—and is still a secret from tourists—but it’s being invaded by some of chicest restaurateurs and fashion peeps around. As an added bonus, the Moulin Rouge backdrop is pretty freaking awesome. Here are my can’t-miss spots in the 9th Arrondissement. emily altieri

Spree
I get the feeling this boutique attracts some real regulars. It’s kind of a one-stop shop for European amazingness, with lots of Isabel Marant and Acne, a good amount of denim, and a small selection of vintage couture.
(6 Rue la Vieuville)

Rose Bakery
If you ask me what I’m going to miss most about Paris, this is at the top of the list. Ginger tea, mushroom scramble, and banana cake—game over. Beware: The place is small—and there’s usually a line—but that’s just Paris.
(46 Rue des Martyrs)

Sept-Cinq
This miniature concept store somehow manages to squeeze in a charming little coffee bar, too. The two owners keep the shelves stocked with accessories made exclusively by Parisian designers. Hmm…sound familiar? This shop is basically made for the Of a Kind customer.
(54 Rue Notre Dame de Lorette)

Causses
When the farmers’ market feels a little overwhelming, this is your spot! Causses is a specialty store with all kinds of local products—spices, cheeses, olives, and, of course, fresh bread. I can confidently claim that I’ve mastered the art of the charcuterie platter now.
(55 Rue Notre-Dame de Lorette)

Pigalle Boutique
My friends and family members are all getting hoodies and tees from the boutique’s in-house label for Christmas. They’re so good! Plus, the place carries under-the-radar streetwear labels (a lot from Japan and Amsterdam) and always has a few mind-blowing Rick Owens pieces on-hand.
(7 Rue Henry Monnier)

Where else has Emily been going in Paris? Take a peek.

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Take 5: The Places You Absolutely Need to Visit in the Eastern Marais

After Emily Altieri finished up her Of a Kind internship this summer, she headed to Paris for some study-abroad action. Yah, we weren’t jealous at all. So we’ve asked her to give us the scoop on her best finds around the city—and, listen, though she might be both darling and young, don’t dare accuse her of having college-girl taste. —erica

How amazing is the Marais? So good I had to write about it twice. If you’re looking to escape the crowds, weekday afternoons in the eastern section of the 3rd arrondissement are kind of magical, especially after a visit to the nearby Picasso Museum. Five stops to make! emily altieri

Et Vous
This boutique is refreshingly relaxed compared to many stores in Paris. And so are the clothes: I go here specifically for tees and hoodies—the ones from Leon & Harper are my favorite.
(17 Rue de Sevigné)

404
I never had the desire to go to Morocco until I found this restaurant. The place is always packed, but that makes for a really fun atmosphere. Oh, yeah—the food is also amazing. 
(69 Rue des Gravilliers)

Claire Naa
I’m a sucker for stackable jewelry, and the stuff here is reasonably priced enough to pile it on. There is also a small selection of (very enticing) vintage furniture!
(45 Rue de Turenne)

Comptoir de L’Image
Book-lover nirvana. Though it’s the size of a small closet, I could spend hours here. Favorite purchases: a 1950 holiday issue of French Vogue—although a seventies edition with a Twiggy cover is a close second.
(44 Rue de Sévigné)

The Broken Arm
After a single bite of the café’s blueberry cheesecake, I was sold on this concept shop. There isn’t ton of merchandise, but every piece is really stand-out—including special-edition Nike sneakers.

Ahhhhhh, Paris! Get your fill here.

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Tour NYC, Paris, and…Rockland, Maine, With Meg Farrell

Her favorite things in her three fave places.

Meg Farrell of the slick leather line Farrell & Co. might call Rockland, Maine, home these days, but it took her awhile to get there: She lived in eight different cities in almost as many years before settling down. Below, the things she hearts about her new locale—and what she misses about her two top stops along the way. —genevieve ang

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The cottage where Meg vacationed her whole life in Owlshead, Maine.

Rockland, Maine
“I grew up spending time in a small town near here. It was kind of a childhood home, and everyone in my family has at one point dreamt of living here permanently. It’s so beautiful. I really love it here.”

To-Do List
1) “My favorite place to decompress is Owls Head State Park. It’s right on the water—a beautiful, private rocky coast. I go there often with my dog.”
2) “Saltwater Farm overlooks the harbor and is a really nice place to go for any meal. The menu is farm-fresh, American fare with French and Italian influences.”
3) “Another favorite is Tinder Hearth Bakery in Brooksville, Maine. It’s a collective of amazing artists and musicians. They make beautiful artisanal bread and used to be my neighbors.”

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Meg at a Parisian open-air market in January 2011.

Paris, France
“I lived in Paris for six months when I studied abroad. I lived in the 7th arrondissement, which is a super-fancy neighborhood.”

To-Do List
1) “One of my all-time favorite things to do was to go to a park down the street from my house, Jardin Catherine Labouré, with a blanket and a book. It was always filled with these French families with beautiful children running around in their underwear.”
2) “The Spanish Quarter has all these theaters that would play old movies. I used to go to Le Champollion in the 5th arrondissement. I watched Rebel Without a Cause for the first time there—it was one of those great Parisian experiences.”
3) “I also shopped at the open-air markets every week. My neighborhood spot was the Raspail Organic Market on Boulevard Raspail. It was amazing, and I would regularly buy vegetables, soap, jams, and honey.”

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New York City
“I lived in New York from 2003 to 2009. I went to Parsons for four years, where I studied photography, but I also did other work. I struggled to find myself and what I wanted to do—which I think is hard to do in New York City.”

To-Do List
1) “My favorite restaurant is Prune. It’s simple and delicious.
2) “I also used to go to the Baggot Inn in Greenwich Village a lot to hear great bluegrass-folk music. It had an impromptu folk music jam where anyone could come sit in and play with regulars like Sheriff Uncle Bob. Unfortunately the Baggot Inn is not longer around, but the Sheriff has moved his Bluegrass and Goodtime Jam to Wednesday nights at The Grisly Pear on MacDougal Street.
3) “I absolutely love Murray’s Bagels, and I make a point to have breakfast there every time I’m in the city. Their bagels are huge, fluffy, and untoasted. The best time to go is early in the morning when the bagels are still warm!”

Meg’s new edition is a mini backpack that is ready for anything!

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Take 5: The Spots You Really Have to Check Out in the Upper Marais

After Emily Altieri finished up her Of a Kind internship this summer, she headed to Paris for some study-abroad action. Yah, we weren’t jealous at all. So we’ve asked her to give us the scoop on her best finds around the city—and, listen, though she might be both darling and young, don’t dare accuse her of having college-girl taste. —erica

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Looking for the perfect Sunday in Paris? Head to Le Marais—partly because everywhere else is closed, but mostly because of the insanely good restaurants and ample shopping. It is also a lot more casual than the rest of Paris—we’re talking West Village versus Central Park West—but, ya know, still wildly chic. The area has grown so much that one little guide is not nearly enough, so for now: my five favorites in the 3rd Arrondissement (a.k.a., Upper Marais). emily altieri

Betjeman & Barton
At this tea bar, you’re encouraged to try out their 180 varieties—and take your favorite to-go (hard to find in France). With the communal tables, homemade scones, and hot pink teapots, this is your girly Parisian moment.
(24 Boulevard des filles du Calvaire)

Chez Janou
I was convinced that charming waiters didn’t exist in Paris until I visited this local brasserie, and the place looks like a still from a mushy French romcom. The food is also fantastic—especially the self-serve chocolate mousse, which is, as the Of a Kind team would say, NEXT LEVEL.
(2 Rue Roger Verlomme)

Merci
You just can’t go to Paris without at least a quick browse here—I forbid it, actually. The concept shop has men’s, women’s, and home sections—goodness for everyone—and there are also three cafés on-site.
(111 Boulevard Beaumarchais)

French Trotters
I died a little bit over their accessories but the clothing is also awesome—with designers like Opening Ceremony and American Vintage. The selection for guys might be even better, and that’s saying a lot.
(30 Rue de Charonne)

Closed
This co-ed German label just opened its first Paris store this fall, and I love shopping here because I know I’m finding things I cant get anywhere else. Knits, leather, denim, and shearling!
(18 Rue de Poitou)

Where else has Emily been hangin’ in Paris? More here.

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Take 5: The Places You Absolutely Can’t Miss in Paris’s 7th Arrondissement

After Emily Altieri finished up her Of a Kind internship this summer, she headed to Paris for some study-abroad action. Yah, we weren’t jealous at all. So we’ve asked her to give us the scoop on her best finds around the city—and, listen, though she might be both darling and young, don’t dare accuse her of having college-girl taste. —erica

I knew I was living in the right place when I found a clothing boutique nestled between a wine cave and a chocolate shop. Here are a handful of my favorites in the 7th arrondissement, right near the famous open-air market on Rue Cler. emily altieri

Acquaverde
French fashion can sometimes feel too stiff, but this place doesn’t at all. The Parisian label specializes in the coolest colored denim and awesome outerwear (including some pretty major varsity jackets).
(103 rue Saint-Dominique)

Aoshida Black
The size of this shop? Underwhelming. The clothes in it? The opposite. It focuses on more unknown designers from Korea, Belgium, and Denmark—stuff you definitely won’t be finding elsewhere.
(117 rue Saint-Dominique)

Michel Chaudun
As a card-carrying chocolate snob, it is my duty to test out all of the Paris spots, and, so far, this one’s my favorite. The chocolate pavé cubes are like Hershey’s kisses as chic as Emmanuelle Alt.
(149 rue de L’Université)

Brasserie Thoumieux
The décor of this French brasserie in the ultra-stylish Hotel Thomieux [Ed: Pictured up top!] is reason enough to visit—we’re talking art-nouveau light fixtures and red velvet upholstery (very Midnight in Paris). And then there’s the awesome people-watching and food…
(79 rue Saint-Dominique)

Eric Chauvin
When you walk into this tiny flower shop, the hydrangeas are so massive and the dangling vines so ridiculously lush that they create a maze-like situation. You’ll want to take some home with you, and the price tags totally allow for that.
(22 rue Jean Nicot)

What else should you do in Paris? Some more ideas here and here.

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Lena Wald Gives Us a Way-Chic Tour of Paris’s Left Bank

This will make you want to take a two-year trip to the city, too.

Jewelry designer Lena Wald and her boyfriend made the call to move to Paris with their sons two whole weeks before leaving. The verdict after two years in the city? Best decision ever. “I loved that you didn’t have to go looking for things to do,” says Lena. “You could just walk outside and be somewhere beautiful, or you would stumble upon something going on that you didn’t know about.” And though she and her fam have been back in L.A. since 2011, Paris’s 6th arrondissement is still her home-away-from-home. Here are some of the former haunts that she misses most. —meghana gandhi

Food

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Pizza Chic
“This place is great for kids. It’s owned by the people who own Merci, who are the founders of Bonpoint—so it really is chic. And the pizza is fantastic.”
(13 rue Mézières)

Le Comptoir du Relais
“This restaurant is in the Hôtel Relais Saint-Germain. It’s a bistro by day, a gastro by night—and it’s really delicious. It’s very difficult to get in, because they give preference to people staying in the hotel, but you can sometimes get a reservation.”
(9 Carrefour de l’Odéon)

Tan Dinh
“This place serves amazing Vietnamese food. I went here with Kelly Wearstler, who says she dreams about the soup.”
(60 rue de Verneuil)

L’épicerie des Saints-Pères d’Olivier Pitou
“We used to love this little market. The owners have an amazing flower shop (called Flower) across the street.”
(23 rue des Saints-Pères)

Huilerie Artisanale J.Leblanc et fils
“This place was on my street. The company has been around since 1878. They have the most amazing pistachio oil, and they also have pine nut oil and walnut oil. It’s all delicious. It tastes very pure.”
(12 rue Jacob)

Sights

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Deyrolle
“This taxidermy shop is so old-school. It’s like nowhere else in the world. You can only find it in Paris.”
(46 rue du Bac)

Serge Gainsbourg’s Apartment
“The building is covered in graffiti and has become a memorial because people write notes about Serge on it. The artist Space Invader even did a little Serge Gainsbourg on the building.”
(5 bis rue de Verneuil)

Shopping

imageGalerie Downtown
“This shop has all of the furniture that I love: Jean Prouvé, Charlotte Perriand, Serge Mouille. They have some of the best examples of work by these designers (besides, of course, the pieces that I curate at Maxfield Gallery!).”
(18 & 33 rue de Seine)

Isabel Marant
“This store was also on my street, so I would pass by it all the time. She always uses good fabrics, including a lot of natural fabrics. I just like her sensibility—it’s easy to wear.”
(1 rue Jacob)

Galerie Yves Gastou
“This store has a great mix of furniture. They have a lot of amazing pieces from the forties, fifties, sixties, and seventies.”
(12 rue Bonaparte)

Karry’O
“She has great vintage jewelry—including some important pieces—as well as some new things. It’s a fun jewelry shop.”
(62 rue des Saints-Pères)

Lena’s new edition has us feeling all kinds of patriotic—check it out now!

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Hortense Bonneau’s All-Time Fave Spots in Paris

Where to get a good éclair…and some really spectacular baby clothes.

Although Hortense Bonneau of Hortense Jewelry is a seasoned West Coaster—she hopscotched from San Fran to Santa Monica before finally settling in L.A.—she spent the first three decades of her life in the City of Light. Here, take a tour of the Parisian places Hortense makes a point to visit when she goes back home. —alisha prakash

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Dalloyau
“The first thing I have to eat when I go back is a good éclair au café and a religieuse au café—both with coffee inside, not chocolate. I like to buy them at Dalloyau founded in 1682 near the garden Le Luxembourg. I buy my favorite pastries and go to the garden. French pastries are just a dream.”
(2 Place Edmond Rostand)

Bonton
“Bonton is a gorgeous store for kids. It’s quite expensive, but the clothes and toys are so amazing that, just for the inspiration, it feels good to visit.”
(Multiple locations)

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Mariage Frères
Here, you can find wonderful teas. The place is so old and magical. There’s a store downstairs where I buy my teas, and upstairs, there’s a Salon de Thé, where you can sit and enjoy tea with the most amazing pastries.”
(30 Rue du Bourg Tibourg)

K. Jacques
“They have amazing sandals in the Marais area. You can often find a mini selection of K. Jacques sandals in L.A.—but only the flat ones, and K. Jacques offers heels as well!”
(16 Rue Pavée)

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Le Bon Marché
“I like to go to Le Bon Marché because you can find a lot of the famous brands in one store. It’s like the equivalent of Barneys.”
(24 Rue de Sèvres)

Diptyque
“I also love going to the candle store Diptyque. The one in Paris is the oldest one—I think it’s the first one that opened. The store is so authentic and beautiful.”
(34 Boulevard Saint Germain)

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Le Café de Flore
“Summer in Paris is just the best, especially in August when everybody is gone for vacation. I like to sit outside and have a drink around 7 p.m. I like all the cafes in Le Marais or Saint Germain, like Le Café de Flore. It’s kind of cliché, but it’s an old café where all the writers and singers in Paris used to—and still—go.”
(172 Boulevard Saint-Germain)

Le Petit Cambodge
“The Asian restaurant Le Petit Cambodge—my husband and I used to live right next to it, so we were there all the time. On weekends, they have a line on the street that’s crazy.”
(20 Rue Alibert)

First thing tomorrow, get your hands on the fantastic edition Hortense made us—totally French-girl chic.

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Hortense Jewelry

Long before French-born Hortense Bonneau was designing her line, she was a kid with an eye for jewelry. “When I was five, I went to Florence with my dad. There’s one street with jewelers on both sides, and I wanted to go inside every store,” she says. “Then, at 10, I went Place Vendôme in Paris, spending hours looking into the windows of Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier.”

But she ended up working as a photo editor at a magazine for years before realizing she had an itch. “I wanted to do something with my hands, but I didn’t know what. So my husband sat me down and asked me what I liked in life,” she recalls. The first thing that came to mind: jewelry.

When she moved to San Fran with her movie-animator man, she made the switch. “I washed dogs. That’s how I made money to buy a bench and tools,” she says. One year later, Hortense registered at the Academy of Art and the Alan Revere Academy, and after working as a metalsmith for other designers, launched her own fine-jewelry label in 2007. Over the years, it’s evolved as her life has—taking a pause when her daughter Lola was born, making the move to L.A. when she did, getting daintier when the mood struck her. “Step by step, that’s how I grew.” —alisha prakash

hortensejewelry.com

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